The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than in the 90s.

An unexpected discovery on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the path of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's buzzing 1990s artistic milieu, moving from mannequin to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"It was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I felt we’d be great friends. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that energy."

Although Enninful appears wistful, he is in good company. Lately, a wistful romanticisation of the 1990s has become pervasive. However since that time, Enninful feels a profound shift. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "This isn't just this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is increasingly evident: the rise of far-right politics, the pushback against social awareness, and the reinforcement of Eurocentric beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the late 90s, now a more divisive political force stands as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an badge of Cool Britannia, has returned as a polarising symbol.

According to Enninful, the response has consistently been to celebrate culture in all its diversity. This was the core philosophy behind his first issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, featuring a wide range of cultural icons from literature.

"People with a voice should wield it," he comments, discussing those editorial decisions. "People often debate about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain was not a lenient country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I trust this phase will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He finds hope in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

Those early experiences would define a groundbreaking career characterised by fearlessness and inclusivity. Enninful made history as the first male, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to assume the editorship at British Vogue. His time featured landmark covers showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.

"To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he emphasises.

Beyond the Magazine World

He has established his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since moving on from his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor".

"I constantly interrogate the status quo. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the doctors, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, with nothing, and I found myself on the margins. I was painfully reserved. My teachers predicted I’d have no future. Me and my brothers were harassed under the suspicion laws … all that gave me a unique perspective both an insider and outsider."

Defying the stereotype of fashion editors as loud and highly strung, Enninful is softly spoken and exudes calm. His path has not been immune to adversity, including well-documented struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also undergone serious health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, not working, fearing I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to embrace every opportunity that I was so scared to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

A Foray into Curation

This drive to be typecast has inspired him beyond the world that built his career. He is now organising a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's creative cross-pollination – and give platform to those who weren't given adequate attention at the time.

"The establishment often failed to celebrate the right artists because they lacked the right pedigree," he observes.

This venture itself uses a novel approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a broader vision."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful operates as one of the world's most respected cultural influencers. His story, he feels, is a demonstration to the power of following your instincts.

How would the younger Edward react to the his current self? He chuckles. "He would be astonished, but he’d be proud. Back then I was anti-establishment. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."

He adds. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve made up my mind to do something."