Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their children do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
